Our Product Guides, if available for any given product will be available to download on the product page. If there is not a link to download a product specific guide, then there isn't one available for your application. The additional tips provided here are written with the assumption you are a professional, have a very firm grasp on your cars fueling, wiring systems, and have the proper tools, and expertise in installing these types of products.
WE DO NOT provide installation support OUTSIDE OF WHAT IS PROVIDED ON THIS PAGE, WE ALSO DO NOT PROVIDE SUPPORT TO 2ND HAND PURCHASES OR PURCHASES MADE OUTSIDE OF OUR AUTHOIZED DEALER NETWORK you will need to consult a professional if you are not 100% confident in what you are about to install.
AUX, BigBoy and Flex Fuel Kits REQUIRE Tuning to work. They cannot be simply plugged in and used without tuning. Flex Tables need to be activated for the Flex Kits, and FSCM adjustments need to be made for the additional fuel flow for the pumps. SMG does not provide ANY Tuning advice. Consult your Tuning professional.
Flex kit notes:
- Note all current flex kits use a new plug and play coil jumper harness and no longer tap the fuse box nor have a dedicated ground wire.
- Simply connect our sensor at the fuel rail, then connect the jumper harness at the nearest ignition coil. Lastly, route the white signal wire to the PCM. (see our universal pin out guide HERE if you don’t know which one you need).
- A handy weather proof disconnect inline of the white signal wire will allow easier routing and connection at the PCM.
- If you need PCM pin out information, refer to the universal PCM Guide HERE (not all years, variations, makes or models are covered, consult your tuner if you are unsure)
- All BigBoy Pump systems require tuning, SMG does not offer individual tuning support, we do provide baseline settings for use within HPTuners on the product pages if available. Again, this information will typically be vehicle specific and if available will be included with your pump module or on the product page for download. Note BigBoy pumps utilize OEM baskets, and FPR’s. (we'll explain why this is important in the next line.
- Most FPRs max out at 5 bar of pressure before they will open releasing all pressure. Pushing your pump to this limit or beyond will bleed off all of the fuel pressure and reduce performance drastically as the pump will not be able to provide the volume needed when the FPR is dumping the excess pressure back into the tank. If you are experiencing a pressure drop from your BigBoy pump Module at high demand, its likely due to pressures rising over the FPRs threshold and it starting to bleed off pressure. Simply lowering the demand to a more reasonable pressure across the board will likely cure your issue (HPFP/LPFP systems do not need 70+ psi to run correctly, they simply need enough volume to keep the HPFP happy).
- Commanding a flat 50psi tends to support even the most demanding builds due to the massive volume our pumps can push. This includes all tables where pump pressure is determined. (Be sure to address DESIRED PRESSURE Tables and MAX PRESSURE tables in your ECM and Duty Cycle tuning as well as license and tune the same FSCM Tables). Ultimate pressure needs will be determined by your car and build. 50Psi is our recommended baseline and has shown to support most high power builds, your results may vary.
- It should also go without saying, these pumps suck.. as in they suck a ton of fuel. Its not recommended to run less than 1/4 tank of fuel when performing any sort of performance driving, as you could potentially cavatate the pump. Since its significantly more powerful than the OEM units, especially on cars with saddle tanks, the secondary side transfer is a mush slower process and at low levels, the time it takes to transfer back into the pump side wont keep up with demand
Aux Kit Notes:
- All current AUX Fuel kits feature new Weather Proof Connections for Hobbs, Relay and Primary Fuse, utilize a static Hobbs, meaning it is pre-set to a trigger pressure and does not require adjustment.
- Our Aux Kits while designed for each specific vehicle we offer them for, are not designed to be installed just one way. Where you mount your pumps, route your lines or wires, tap your tank and mount your harness electrics, is up to you the installer. You as the installer have discretion to mount them where they make the most sense for your build. If this freedom is beyond your grasp, we suggest getting a 2nd opinion.
- A length of vacuum rated line, and T-fitting are provided to tap boost reference for the Hobbs. (where you tap this is up to you and your build).
- If you wish to use this kit in a non-boosted application, you will need to replace the Hobbs with a window or RPM switch. We do not provide support for this and you will be entirely on your own. We may however offer switches and adapters in our aux accessory section that will allow you to run these kits in an NA application
- Aux Kits wiring is simple, Under hood, the main connections are a Large Red Ring Terminal to Battery +, Large Black Ring Terminal to a good Chassis Ground, Fuse Tap to a “switched” circuit (if you are unsure how to determine which is a switched circuit, then you should probably consult a professional for this installation). Then the long power lead is routed to your Aux pump under the car. Connections at the pump are + and – Positive lead from under hood and the short black Ground wire connects from pump to frame mounting point. (Note, if installing a aux kit on a corvette, the long lead from under hood will contain both + and – leads).
- Fuel connections will require tapping your fuel tank and a NPT 90* fitting is provided for this purpose. You will need to drill and tap a hole at a suitable location (you choose based on your needs) rear most of the tank to ensure fuel is available under extreme acceleration, (Drill and tap kit is available).
- Fuel lines are pre-terminated and allow a small amount of flexibility in mounting location to best fit your specific needs. Again there is no "right place for every build and you have discretion here.
- Our kits also tap into the factory fuel feed and a supplied fuel “T” and will allow you to do so without cutting. Simply insert T at factory fuel feed line quick disconnect near fuel tank. Then attach the 6an Fuel line to the T.
- Be sure to use the supplied sealant on the fuel tank connection (tank side of fitting only) and on the fuel "T" (only on the NPT thread side.) Never use sealant on the AN fittings as they are a compression style fitting and are designed to seal without any sealant, just proper torque. Over tightening AN fittings will damage the threads and likely cause leaks, SMG will not be responsible for Damaged components due to over tightening.
- Our guides are provided only as a reference for the professional installer and not to be used as a comprehensive “how to”. If you are not entirely sure how to install this kit and need step-by-step instructions, please refer to a professional installer with experience in adding supplemental fuel systems.
Due to continuous product improvement and streamlining, We will be discontinuing our vehicle specific guides and simply providing pin out information where necessary, specific to the application you are working on.
Note many of the instructions currently available are already outdated, all of our flex kits mount under hood at the fuel rails, (except our specific frame rail kit for FS GM Trucks and SUVs) All use a jumper harness for power (no longer do they include a fuse tap) and all include a handy wire disconnect on the PCM wire. Guides should only be used for basic reference and pinout data.
15" Conversion Notes:
Understand your vehicles brake systems unlike fuel systems above can impact your vehicles stopping ability and safety. You should weigh all risks involved when you make changes to a vehicles safety systems. SMG will not be responsible for decreased stopping performance, faulty installations, nor any accident incurred with our products installed. You the installer/owner own all responsibility from modifying your cars safety systems.
- Our 15" Conversion Kits Include all parts necessary to install on a otherwise stock car. If you have additional modifications, your results may vary.
- Brake systems are relatively simply, understanding how they work and what's necessary to bleed a brake system is critical.
- Toe rods and bushing included in some of our kits, are designed to fit only one way. Note the different sized bushings/bolts and install per any labels included in the kit. Using our kit with another brands toe rods may provide unexpected results.
- Bleeder screws included with our kits are shorter than OEM and the shortest available in the market, Some wheels will interfere with the bleeder screws and the screws will need to have the stems trimmed (ground down) to clear your wheels
- Always test fit wheels for clearance before you drive your car. We test our brakes with many of the popular wheels available, but it is impossible to know all variations. Failure to test a wheel over our brakes for clearance may cause damage to your wheel or brake system if they contact while driving
- You may need to trim or buy other wheels...To verify fitment, with the vehicle raised off the ground install your 15" wheel over the brake kit and hand tighten a few lug nuts to secure wheel making sure not to contact the brakes/bleeders etc. Do Not spin the wheel while it is loose as the tight clearance may cause contact unless tighten Once wheel is secured with hand tight lugs, slowly rotate the wheel by hand to make sure no rubbing occurs. If rubbing occurs, verify where. Trim bleeder screw if necessary. If contact is made on other parts of the kit, your wheels may not be compatible with our kit. If you choose to grind your caliper or bracket to fit the wheels, understand you do so on your own.
- Replacement Pads, and rotors are available through SMG